Grog by the Hearth
As the product of Midwestern Winter Wonderlands where after-school hot chocolate was an intrinsic right, the holidays in Los Angeles, quite frankly, kind of suck.
December in Chicago has the kind of soul that only a cold-weather Christmas can. Sure, when I lived there I was always shivering, but deep down I never wanted the season to end. Especially when it was time to hit the bars. With their glimmering lights, rich woods and roaring fires that worked by way of actual logs, Chicago's nightlife scene was a twinkling fantasy land during the holidays (or perhaps I just drank too much Jaeger back then?).
But in L.A., set against a backdrop of palm trees, the holidays feel disingenuous. Department stores lack that 34th Street charm, decorations feel forced and the only thing that nightspots seem to be celebrating is when Lindsay Lohan stumbles home without incident. Which is why I set out to find the city's best spots for recreating a magical cold weather Christmas. I scoured every corner of town to find bars where I could sit in front of a fire, slurp a mug of spiked Swiss Miss and feel like I was home again -- if only until my meter expired. These are the warm, fuzzy places I'll be hanging 'til Christmas.
Even though I celebrate Chanukah.
Shutters
You wouldn't think that overt amounts of traditional holiday cheer would be lurking on the seaside. But this beachside luxury hotel does Christmas correctly -- with unassuming seasonal decor that seamlessly melds into conservative year-round furnishings. Low ceilings, dueling fireplaces and framed antique photos make for a cozy environment as-is. But add tastefully decorated trees, massive potted poinsettias, flickering candles and -- the piece de resistance -- a snowy, miniature village complete with model train, and you have the stuff that Hallmark holiday cards are made of. Smile-inducing details abound, including strategically-placed nutcrackers, garland-wrapped wall sconces and a jar of tree-shaped sugar cookies sitting atop the front desk. The atmosphere here is so homey that one guest curled up with a book in an overstuffed armchair near the fire, while a group of stuffy, suited up business men actually seemed happy. 'Tis the season for miracles, after all. One Pico Blvd., Santa Monica. 310-458-0030. www.shuttersonthebeach.com
WARM AND FUZZY: Inside Shutters' cozy lobby, guests make themselves at home in front of a roaring fire.
The Abbey
While on the prowl for holiday hangouts, I found myself at a stoplight in front of popular West Hollywood gay bar The Abbey and immediately flipped a bitch so I could park and see the holiday cheer up close. The medieval-flavored outpost, where Hillary Clinton once campaigned, perfectly sets the birth-of-Christ mood with twinkling-lit trees of all shapes and sizes, row upon row of hanging electronic icicles and red-bow wreaths swinging from every nook and cranny. The stone structure, which comes clad with matching gargoyles, has a slight theatrical quality that makes you feel as if Scrooge is about to pop out with a "bah humbug!" at any given moment. Like the Peninsula, the music here just doesn't work...as booming house beats are a far cry from Johnny Mathis. But you could probably sit in silence while staring at the bar's giant wrought iron fireplace and be happy. And if not, just take a gander at the menorah resting underneath a cross. That should bring a smirk to your face. 692 N. Robertson Blvd., West Hollywood. 310-289-8410. www.abbeyfoodandbar.com
Casa del Mar
Though just across the street, Casa del Mar's sprawling lobby feels like the Titanic's hull in comparison to Shutters' cozy quarters. But despite the space's soaring ceilings and seaside windows stretching stern to stem, this Casa stays intimate thanks to low, glowing lights and dark, plush furniture. Holiday decorations are sparsely scattered throughout the grand lobby, making for a simple and elegant display. Sure, it could be slightly more festive. But upon entering the space, you'll be greeted by a massive, fully lit tree that covers an equally hearty hearth -- the perfect spot for sinking into an overstuffed velvet love seat and noshing on complimentary Christmas cookies that seem to have been plucked from the oven at exactly the right moment. There is also unlimited hot chocolate and spiced cider complete with fresh cinnamon sticks and cloves to be found. Not to mention a live jazz trio that plays a selection of holiday favorites, making one feel like they're in A Charlie Brown Christmas. And for added homespun flair, a lively crowd of happy hour revelers seemed deeply involved in the Bulls vs. Hawks game -- just like the guests at any proper holiday gathering. 1910 Ocean Way, Santa Monica. 310-581-5533. www.hotelcasadelmar.com
SWEET NOEL: A selection of complimentary beverages and baked goods at Santa Monica's Casa del Mar.