Fierce Factor

It’s hard not to envision a futuristic Macchu Picchu when viewing Elena Coleman’s jewelry. The 31-year-old designer’s emerging collection, TomTom, is rooted in bold, geometric patterns reminiscent of tribal societies (for an added reference, much of her spring collection is named for 80s music staples, from Whip It to Spin Right Round).

A native Angeleno, Coleman was living in New York when her company took off, but moved back home in December. “Right now I’m just busy working to expand the collection using more architecture techniques,” says Coleman, who studied at the SCI-Arc. “Everything I learned in architecture school — models of houses, buildings and furniture — I translated to jewelry.”

The craft is in Coleman’s blood: Her grandfather and great-grandfather worked in jewelry and design. As her career takes off, we caught up with Coleman to discuss her multidiscipline work that includes startling necklaces, bracelets and earrings.

BOLD VISION: S/S pieces from TomTom, clockwise from top right: Spin Right Round earrings ($155), Dance All Night earrings ($165), The Radio Star necklace ($195) and Parallel Lines necklace ($95).

Style Section L.A.: How does jewelry design relate to architecture?

Coleman: It’s a similar process on a smaller scale. In architecture school when I started a project, I would do a lot of research. I would find inspiration, see the patterns and translate this into a building. With designing jewelry I’m doing this as well, but trying to translate it into something wearable.

What prompted you to study architecture?

I was working in San Francisco at Wired magazine in advertising, and I knew I wanted to be in a more creative field. So I took a furniture design class, then an architecture class. Eventually I decided to return to school to get my masters in architecture.

But eventually you made a crossover into jewelry design.

Yes, I was inspired when I was living in New York. I would walk everywhere, and one day I stumbled upon a few jewelry design shops. I went in and bought a bunch of things and tinkered with them at home. I felt creatively inspired in New York by the people and the buildings. The initial collection was different than what I’m doing now. I didn’t quite know what I could do with jewelry. Now I’ve done a lot of experimenting with different processes.

What’s the aesthetic you strive for when designing jewelry?

Architectural, unique, edgy. Big statement pieces and geometric designs.

What’s your current inspiration?

For this past spring/summer collection, I was listening to a lot of synthesizer pop and David Bowie and was inspired to make my designs more futuristic. This coming fall/winter collection I took inspiration from tribal, ancient pre-Columbian, Mayan cultures. I modeled pieces after warriors adorning themselves for battle.

How does your inspiration change from L.A. to New York?

New York is such a fashion capital. In L.A., I’m more inspired by graffiti or finding things when I’m driving around. It’s more of a pop culture thing. So many different cultures are in L.A.

How do you think jewelry style differs between the two cities?

In general New Yorkers are bigger risk takers. People take risks here but in Manhattan, you'll see a statement necklace during the day at work. In L.A., there’s more of a change from day to night. In New York people are always giving it their all.