Booke Smart

Designer Jane Booke is proof that fantastic design can evolve and thrive in Los Angeles. After a 10 year-long hiatus to raise her son, she's back and better than ever.

During a recent visit to her whimsical studio, filled with sewing machines and hundreds of magnificent gowns from past collection, it was clear that Booke is indeed back in action. Her roots are quintessentially L.A., where she began designing gowns and collecting vintage in her teens. She sold her first set to L.A. boutique Les Habitudes after the owner admired Booke’s self-made dress at a wedding.

Booke's latest couture collection, comprising mostly dresses in silks and chiffons, incorporates her fascination with Renaissance style and appreciation for luxurious lingerie. It's easy to be drawn drawn to her simpler styles, like the tank “sex” dress made of silk habotai, available in a mini and maxi version. The maxi version in deep copper showcases her attention to form, with fabric falling perfectly in a bias cut. The short version is more modern and features a thigh-skimming hemline. Each piece is custom made by the in-house atelier (call 323-936-1122 for an appointment). 

Style Section L.A. caught up with Booke, who eagerly modeled a few special pieces in between talking about her love of lingerie and theories on femininity.

DRESS UP Pieces from Booke's collection of flouncy, feminine garb.

Style Section L.A. A lot can change in 10 years. How is your design life different today?

Booke: It’s different in that I have a pretty wild set of people in my life. But what hasn't changed is that I really believe fashion is everything. Everything. Women need to understand that you don’t save beauty for later. You should use your beautiful china everyday, there's no saving it for a special occasion. Every day is a special occasion, every single day. It’s not about the physical stuff; it's how it makes you feel. Women walk differently when they put on my clothes, they feel better about themselves, they feel feminine, they feel powerful. I think your femininity is where your power is. 

The Fall 2010 collection has lingerie-inspired pieces, along with Renaissance pieces that are characteristic of your previous designs. Do you have an aesthetic direction in mind for future collections? 

I was really inspired by lingerie, especially old French regency, the really sexy lingerie. Going forward I am still inspired by the Renaissance and real feminine stuff with a bit of an edge: maybe in the color, maybe in the cut. Do I still do Renaissance pieces? Sometimes I do, because I love era. I love old royalty, fantasy. I don’t like certain other realities. My reality is not everyone else’s reality. I mean, I'd put on this dress [picks up long velvet, very Renaissance inspired] with a pair of boots and go to Whole Foods.  

What is the best-selling piece for Fall 2010? 

This! [Nods down at the dress she is wearing.] The mini “sex dress” in silk chiffon.  

SILKY SMOOTH Booke models her "sex dress" in silk chiffon.