Knit Wit
You'd never expect to find fashion's next hot knitwear designer at something called El Paseo Fashion Week in the middle of the California desert. But that's exactly where we first clocked the stunning designs of Julia Nish.
The Modesto, Calif., native showed a series of sumptuous Seventies-inspired knit dresses, sweater and floor-sweeping coats — the lovechildren of Missoni and Rodarte — as part of a special presentation by third-year students from L.A.'s Fashion Institute of Design & Merchandising (FIDM). The 34-year-old walked away from the show with an avalanche of special order requests and serious interest from an investor (whom she's still in talks with).
Though she only recently graduated, Nish has been a freelance designer for L.A. streetwear brand Matte Black for years, and will soon debut a collection of branded knitwear for the label, "called Julia Nish for Matte Black or Nish for Matte Black, I can't decide," noted the designer.
We caught up with the budding yarn phenom to discuss her current reality and what's coming down the pike.
NORDIC SOUL: A wintery look from Julia Nish's final FIDM collection.
You said you knew you wanted to be a designer — but what made you gravitate toward knits?
Julia Nish: It all started with my family. My great grandma had a knitting shop in Turlock, Calif. And my Grandma, mom and aunt all knitted. I started sewing in the 6th grade — I made my own Barbie clothes. But I really didn’t know that much until I went on a tour of FIDM and saw they had a knitwear program. I thought, 'Oh my God, that's awesome.' I also wanted to do something a little different. Fashion designers coming out of school are a dime a dozen.
How did your final collection come together? And did you knit all of that yourself?
I made it all. With the knitwear program, you spend your first year doing fashion design stuff. The second year, you learn to use the knitting machines. You learn to shape sleeves and bodies. Then you have creative classes where you study patterning, cables, jaquard techniques. Then you have a class where you start combining both things — shaping and creating with patterns.
I hear you've been offered some pretty crazy things since the show...
Everything I do is organic and green and chemical free. So I have this alpaca farm owner who wants to give me his farm — his herd — as an inheritance. He ran into the situation where he has the animals and they were his wife's and she passed away, so I'm working with his on finding new homes for the alpacas.
NO SLOUCH: A fashion-forward look from Nish's runway show at El Paseo Fashion Week.
You work mainly with alpaca fiber. Why is that?
It's sustainable. It's good for alpaca owners and for the fashion industry. Alpacas are easy on the environment; they just eat grasses and are docile and family friendly. I read that they are cheaper to keep than raising a dog. I think it’s important to start breeding the animals for fibers instead of just breeding them for blood lines. Alpaca fur is seven times warmer than wool and it’s hypoallergenic and is incredibly soft. It also comes in 32 natural shades, so you don't have to dye it. I also work with silk, wool, bamboo, cotton, cashmere. I like the idea of blending fibers — you get different kinds of texture.
How would you describe your aesthetic?
I’ve heard people tell me it looks bohemian, earthy, mixed with a really interesting sophistication. The shapes I use are sculptural, but I like to use a lot of textures and patterns like in the 70s. I love the 70s Nordic look.
What project are coming up for you?
I'm making lots of custom stuff. I'm going to do some one-off pieces, and maybe some runs of ten, until I can find factory I can trust. I'm starting to research it now. I’m trying to find places that are local and within the U.S.
THIN SKINNED: One of Nish's many designs for Matte Black.
You've been designing for Matte Black for a while — will that continue?
I custom silk-screened some t-shirts for Matte Black for my collection, but you couldn't really see them because they were under all those knits! But the [founders] are using one of my t-shirt designs in a new collection. I'm excited for my knitwear to be a part of their collection. I'll be doing men's sweaters. I think the collaboration will be long term — we have the same aesthetics.
What designers inspire you?
Of course Missoni is a huge inspiration. And Stella McCartney does great knits. I always go back to Ralph Lauren — they do some beautiful stuff. 80s Benetton and Esprit are also inspirations. And Royal Robin’s from Modesto. That was a big fashion thing from when I was younger. Patagonia...really outdoorsy beautiful stuff. But I'm trying to make it more feminine and beautiful. I love the idea of making things that you can live in. I think there’s a certain lifestyle there: People who really appreciate fashion and like to dress. I'm trying to achieve making those few garments that they have that last a lifetime.